| Tristan da Cunha |
Tristan da Cunha (pronounced /ˈtrɪstən də ˈkuːnə/) is a remote volcanic group of islands in the south Atlantic Ocean, and also the name of the main island of that group. It is the most remote inhabited archipelago in the world, lying 2,816 kilometres (1,750 mi) from the nearest land, South Africa, and 3,360 kilometres (2,088 mi) from South America. It is part of the British overseas territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha which also includes Saint Helena 2,430 kilometres (1,510 mi) to its north, and equatorial Ascension Island even farther removed, grouping the British South Atlantic islands into one far-flung centrally administered aggregate. Tristan da Cunha is said to be the "most remote inhabited location on Earth." It has a population of 275 (2009 figures).
The territory consists of the main island of Tristan da Cunha itself, which measures about 11.27 kilometres (7.0 mi) across and has an area of 98 square kilometres (37.8 sq mi), along with the uninhabited Nightingale Islands and the wildlife reserves of Inaccessible Island and Gough Island. |
| |
| Flag Description |
The Flag of Tristan da Cunha was adopted on October 20, 2002 in a proclamation made by the Governor of Saint Helena under a Royal Warrant granted by Queen Elizabeth II. Prior to this, as a dependency of Saint Helena, Tristan da Cunha used the Flag of Saint Helena for official purposes.
The flag is a blue ensign design, defaced with the Coat of Arms of Tristan da Cunha - a Tristan longboat above a Naval Crown, with a central shield decorated with four yellow-nosed Albatrosses and flanked by two Tristan rock lobsters. Below this is a scroll with the territory's motto, Our faith is our strength. The designer is the prominent vexillologist Graham Bartram.
Formal description:
The Blue Ensign of Her Majesty's fleet defaced in the fly by the full Armorial Ensigns of the Territory, as granted by Royal Warrant of Her Majesty the Queen, that is to say, for Arms, Per Fess Azure and Argent between four yellow-nosed Albatrosses Volant outwards in lozenge the two in base reversed a Lozenge embowed inwards all counter changed and for the Crest upon a Helm Within a Naval Crown Or a Cap Azure thereon a Tristan da Cunha Longboat Argent the gunnel bow stern and rudder Azure the booms and mast or and for the Supporters On either side a Tristan da Cunha Spiny Lobster or together with this Motto Our Faith is our Strength, as the same are in the painting hereunto annexed more plainly depicted. This flag to be used on land and at sea as a courtesy ensign. |
|
| |
| Geography |
| Tristan da Cunha is an archipelago of five islands in the southern Atlantic Ocean, the largest of which is the island of Tristan Da Cunha itself and the second-largest the remote bird haven Gough Island. |
the main island Tristan da Cunha and its surrounding islands
Tristan da Cunha, the main island and largest (37°6′44″S 12°16′56″W / 37.11222°S 12.28222°W / -37.11222; -12.28222 (Tristan da Cunha)) area: 98 square kilometres (37.8 sq mi)
Inaccessible Island area: 14 square kilometres (5.4 sq mi)
Nightingale Islands area: 3.4 square kilometres (1.3 sq mi)
Nightingale Island area: 3.2 square kilometres (1.2 sq mi)
Middle Island area: 0.1 square kilometres (24.7 acres)
Stoltenhoff Island area: 0.1 square kilometres (24.7 acres)
Gough Island (Diego Alvarez) area: 68 square kilometres (26.3 sq mi)
Inaccessible Island and the Nightingale Islands are located 35 kilometres (21.7 mi) southwest of the main island, while Gough Island is located 395 kilometres (245.4 mi) south-southeast. The main island is quite mountainous; the only flat area is the location of the capital, Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, on the northwest coast. The highest point is a volcano called Queen Mary's Peak 2,062 metres (6,765.1 ft); it is covered by snow in winter. The climate is marine subtropical with small temperature differences between summer and winter and between day and night. The other islands of the group are uninhabited, except for the weather station on Gough Island, which has been operated by South Africa since 1956 (since 1963 at its present location at Transvaal Bay on the southeast coast), with a staff of six. Tristan da Cunha is the nesting place of Tristan Albatrosses. |
| |
| Maps of Tristan da Cunha |
|
|
| |
| History of Tristan da Cunha |
The islands were first sighted in 1506 by Portuguese explorer Tristão da Cunha, although rough seas prevented a landing. He named the main island after himself, Ilha de Tristão da Cunha, which was later anglicised to Tristan da Cunha Island.
The first survey of the archipelago was made by the French frigate L'Heure du Berger in 1767. Soundings were taken and a rough survey of the coastline was made.
The presence of water at the large waterfall of Big Watron and in a lake on the north coast were noted, and the results of the survey were published by a Royal Navy hydrographer in 1781. The first permanent settler was Jonathan Lambert, from Salem, Massachusetts, United States, who arrived at the islands in December 1810. He declared the islands his property and named them the Islands of Refreshment. Lambert's rule was short-lived, as he died in a boating accident in 1812.
In 1816 the United Kingdom formally annexed the islands, ruling them from the Cape Colony in South Africa. This is reported to have primarily been a measure to ensure that the French would not be able to use the islands as a base for a rescue operation to free Napoleon Bonaparte from his prison on Saint Helena.
The occupation also prevented the United States from using Tristan da Cunha as a base, as they had during the War of 1812. Attempts to colonise Inaccessible Island failed. |
|
| The islands were occupied by a garrison of British Marines, and a civilian population was gradually built up. Whalers also set up on the islands as a base for operations in the Southern Atlantic. However, the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, together with the gradual move from sailing ships to coal-fired steam ships, increased the isolation of the islands, as they were no longer needed as a stopping port for journeys from Europe to the Far East. |
In 1867, Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh and second son of Queen Victoria, visited the islands. The main settlement, Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, was named in honour of his visit. Lewis Carroll's youngest brother, the Rev. Edwin H. Dodgson, served as an Anglican missionary and school teacher in Tristan da Cunha in the 1880s. The second Duke of Edinburgh, the husband of Queen Elizabeth II, visited the islands in 1957 as part of a world tour onboard the royal yacht Britannia.
On 12 January 1938, by Letters Patent, the islands were declared a dependency of Saint Helena. Prior to this, passing ships stopped irregularly at the island for a period of mere hours.
|
| During World War II, the islands were used as a top secret Royal Navy weather and radio station codenamed HMS Atlantic Isle, to monitor U Boats (which needed to surface to maintain radio contact) and German shipping movements in the South Atlantic Ocean. The only currency in use on the island at this time was the potato, and islanders labouring to construct the station were paid in kind with naval supplies for their own use, such as wood, paint and tea. Money was introduced the following year, as was the island's first newspaper, The Tristan Times. The first Administrator was appointed by the British Government during this time. |
In 1958, as part of Operation Argus, the United States Navy exploded an atomic bomb 200 kilometres (124.3 miles) high in the upper atmosphere, 115 kilometres (71.5 mi) southeast of the main island.
In 1961, a volcanic eruption forced the evacuation of the entire population to wooden huts in the disused Pendell Army Camp in Merstham, Surrey, England before moving to a more permanent site at a former Royal Air Force station in Calshot near Southampton, England, living mainly in a road called Tristan Close. In 1962, a Royal Society expedition went to the islands to assess the damage, and reported that the settlement Edinburgh of the Seven Seas had been only marginally affected. Most families returned in 1963 led by Willie Repetto (head of the ten-person island council) and Allan Crawford (the former island welfare officer).
In 2005, the islands were given a United Kingdom post code (TDCU 1ZZ) to make it easier for the residents to order goods online.
The St Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha Constitution Order 2009 was made by HM the Queen and the Privy Council on 8 July and is expected to come into operation shortly thereafter.The new Constitution replaces the 1988 version and among other changes limits the Governor's powers, includes a Bill of Rights, establishes independence of the judiciary and the public service and formally designates the Governor of St Helena as, concurrently, the Governor for Ascension and Tristan da Cunha. It also ends the "dependency" status of Ascension and Tristan da Cunha on St Helena
|
|
| Recent History |
| On 4 December 2007 an outbreak of an acute virus-induced asthma was reported. This outbreak was compounded by Tristan's lack of suitable medical supplies. The British coastguard in Falmouth co-ordinated international efforts to get appropriate medicines to Tristan in order to treat the virus. Tristan’s elderly population and the very young were most at risk; however, only four elderly people were hospitalised. Royal Fleet Auxiliary Vessel RFA Gold Rover upon reaching the island with the required medical supplies found no emergency and the islanders in good general health. |
| On February 13, 2008, fire destroyed the fishing factory and the two generators that supply power to the island. Backup generators were used to power the hospital and give power for part of the day to the rest of the island. Power was on during the day and early evening and candlelight was used the rest of the time. On March 14, 2008, new generators were installed and 24/7 power was restored. This fire was devastating to the island because fishing is a mainstay of the economy. Royal Engineers from the British Army are working on the harbour to help maintain it as everything comes and goes by sea. |
| |
| Politics |
| Executive authority is vested in the Queen, who is represented in the territory by the Governor of Saint Helena.[8] As the Governor resides permanently in Saint Helena, an Administrator is appointed to represent the Governor in the islands. The Administrator acts as the local head of government, and takes advice from the Island Council, made up of eight elected and three appointed members. Policing in Tristan da Cunha is undertaken by one full-time police officer and three special constables. Tristan da Cunha has its own legislation, but the law of Saint Helena applies to the extent that it is not inconsistent with local law, insofar as it is suitable for local circumstances and subject to such modifications as local circumstances make necessary. |
| |
| Edinburgh of the Seven Seas |
Edinburgh of the Seven Seas is the main settlement of the island of Tristan da Cunha, in the Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha territory of the United Kingdom in the South Atlantic Ocean and until 1 September 2009 administered as a dependency of Saint Helena. It is named after Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, the second son of Queen Victoria, when he visited the island in 1867. Locally it is always referred to as The Settlement.
The settlement was founded on the Tristan da Cunha island in 1815 by a Sergeant Glass from the Borders of Scotland after the UK annexed Tristan Da Cunha. A military garrison was maintained on the islands as a guard against any French attempts to rescue Napoleon, imprisoned on Saint Helena. The military garrison remained until the end of World War II.
Edinburgh of the Seven Seas is the only major settlement of Tristan da Cunha, and contains a small port, the Administrator's residence, and the post office. It was damaged in a volcanic eruption on the island in 1961 which forced the entire population to abandon the settlement and move to the UK. The eruption destroyed the settlement's crayfish factory.
After the return of most of the islanders in 1963, the settlement was rebuilt.
Edinburgh of the Seven Seas is regarded as the most remote permanent settlement in the world, being over 1,500 miles (2400 kilometres) from the nearest human settlement, on Saint Helena. |
|
| |
| Flora |
| Even the smaller islands have some plant cover, with the larger ones dominated by ferns and moss. Flora on the archiplego includes many endemic species and many that have a broad circumpolar distribution in the South Atlantic and South Pacific Oceans. Thus many of the species that occur in Tristan da Cunha occur as far away as New Zealand. For example the species Nertera depressa was first collected in Tristan da Cunha, though it has since been recorded in occurrence as far distant as New Zealand. |
| The vegetation of the Tristan da Cunha and Gough Island group is typical of southern cold-temperate oceanic islands, having relatively low species diversity, and a large prevalence of ferns and other cryptogams. The islands support five native vegetation types zoned in relation to altitude and topography. Coastal areas are dominated by tussock grassland (Spartina arundinacea and Parodiochloa flabellata) that is restricted to areas subjected to regular salt spray (WCMC 1994). Tussock grass has largely been eliminated on Tristan by grazing animals, though it does persist on the eastern coast of the island and on inaccessible cliffs. Beyond the tussock grass, fern bush (Histiopteris incisa and Blechnum palmiforme) interspersed with an occasional "island tree" (Phylica arborea) occurs from about 300 m to 500 m elevation. Wet heath extends as high as 800 m presenting a diverse vegetation type, composed of fern species, sedges, grasses, angiosperms, and mosses. B. palmiforme, Empetrum rumbrum, and grasses and sedges dominate these heaths, respectively. Peat bogs of Sphagnum moss occupy suitable depressions above 600 m. Tetroncium magellanicium and Scirpus spp. are the only abundant vascular plants found in the bogs. From 600 m and above, feldmark and montane rock communities are found. These are composed of an assemblage of "cushion-forming" or crevice plants, growing on exposed areas such as ridges (WCMC 1994). The lower altitude islands show fewer vegetation types; for example, Inaccessible Island has three vegetation types: tussock grass, fern bush and a few freshwater bogs, and Nightingale is predominately covered by dense tussock grass. Over sixty plant taxa are restricted to the Gough and Tristan group of islands (WCMC 1994). Gough Island has only four widespread exotic plants; more occur on Tristan Island.
|
| |
| Fauna |
| The Tristan Island group supports many of the same bird species as found on Gough Island, as well as claiming a few unique populations. BirdLife International has classified both Tristan da Cunha and Gough as important Endemic Bird Areas. Tristan is quite remarkable in supporting three endemic genera: Atlantisia, Nesocichla, and Nesospiza (Stattersfield et al. 1998). Nesospiza buntings have speciated at the Tristan da Cunha archipelago, resulting in the Tristan bunting (Nesospiza acunhae) and Wilkins' bunting (N. wilkinsi), which are significantly different in size and co-occur without interbreeding on Nightingale Island. Two endemic landbirds are found at Gough, the Gough moorhen (Gallinula comeri), which is found in fern bush vegetation areas and has also been introduced on Tristan, and the Gough finch (Rowettia goughensis). Tristan albatross (Diomedea exulans dabbenena), the most genetically distinct of the five subspecies of wandering albatross, is listed as Endangered and breeds only on Gough and Inaccessible Islands (Ryan et al. 2001). Several other birds are restricted to Tristan and Gough Islands when breeding including white-chinned petrel (Procellaria aequinoctialis conspicillata) (likely an endemic species), great shearwater (Puffinus gravis), and Atlantic petrel (Pterodroma incerta) (Stattersfield et al. 1998). Tristan da Cunha and Gough Islands are the main southern ocean breeding sites of little shearwater (Puffinus assimilis), and Gough is also a primary breeding site of Puffinus gravis, with as many as three million pairs breeding on the island (WCMC 1994). The last survivors of the southern giant petrel (Macronectes gigantous) also breed on Gough, with an estimated 100-150 pairs (WCMC 1994). Other notable birds of this island group are the endemic Inaccessible Island flightless rail (Atlantisia rogersi), the world's smallest flightless bird (Fraser et al. 1992), and the northern rockhopper penguin (Eudyptes chrysocome moseleyi), for which about 48% of the world's population breed at Gough (WCMC 1994). |
| Only two native breeding mammals occur on the Tristan-Gough Islands. Subantarctic fur seal (Arctocephalus tropicalis) are abundant, and southern elephant seal populations (Mirounga leonina) have been increasing. Populations of these as well as local marine mammals, southern right whale (Eubalaena glacialis australis) (EN) and dusky dolphin (Lagenorhynchus obscurus), have fluctuated greatly in recent history due to hunting. |
Reptiles, amphibians, freshwater fish, and native terrestrial mammals are absent from these islands and terrestrial invertebrates have been poorly studied. In addition to the crayfish industry that largely supports Tristan Island’s economy, Tristan rock lobster (Jasus tristani) and octopus are both are economically exploited, with regulations (WCMC 1994).
|
| |
| Enviromental Issues |
| Tristan Island, being the only permanently inhabited island in this group, has experienced the greatest degree of environmental degradation. Pressures have resulted from agriculture, overgrazing by sheep, tree removal, fire, and the introduction of exotic species. The exploitation of natural resources on Tristan was critical for human survival until the middle of this century, and some native species were almost or completely exterminated. The small community on the island has since taken several locally based measures to reverse this trend. The Island Council passed the first Protection Ordinance in 1950, and in 1994, Inaccessible Island was declared a nature reserve. This island is globally important for its endemic terrestrial species, including the flightless rail, as well as being a breeding site for many seabird species. The islanders retain the right to collect driftwood and guano from the uninhabited island. |
| Gough Island was exploited by sealers in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, with sealers camping on the island for considerable periods of time. They existed on seabirds and their eggs, fish, wild plants, and cultivated potatoes, which are no longer present on the island. Whaling occurred in the waters of Gough Island between 1830 and 1870, though the island remained uninhabited. The island has been visited by scientists periodically since 1811, and meteorologists have inhabited the island since 1956. The meteorological station, with its associated facilities and helicopter landing site, is the only man made structure on the island. Land birds on Gough Island have been protected under the Tristan da Cunha Wildlife Protection Ordinance since 1950; the Tristan da Cunha Conservation Ordinance of 1976 then declared the island and its waters a wildlife reserve. In 1995, Gough Island and its territorial waters to three nautical miles were inscribed on the World Heritage List, only the third natural British site to be included. Justification for the listing included the fact that Gough is the largest scarcely modified cool temperate island ecosystem in the South Atlantic Ocean; for its huge fur seal and rockhopper penguin populations, endemic landbirds, plants and invertebrates; and its importance as a seabird colony (Swales 1996). |
| The isolation of Tristan da Cunha and Gough Islands does not prevent the risk of over-exploitation, which remains a problem with fishing and livestock grazing. The Tristan Islanders have made concerted efforts to prevent degradation and have seen significant success. For example, Phylica arborea trees, which provide an important habitat and food source of for the endemic grosbeak bunting (Nesospiza wilkinsi dunnei), are recovering on cliffs above Edinburgh since a ban on cutting was passed (Swales 1996). Each family on Tristan is now allowed only two cows and seven sheep to reduce the impact of grazing. Some threats, however, are always present, such as the introduction of exotic species onto the islands. The introduced house mouse (Mus musculus) is widespread and abundant on Gough Island (WCMC 1994). Goats and sheep were once introduced to Gough, but are no longer present. All supplies to the meteorological station are carefully checked; in 1990, for example, 10 live snail species were found in an imported cauliflower, along with aphids, caterpillars and mites, and all had to be removed from the island (WCMC 1994). Alien plants on Gough Island primarily originate from seeds found in bird droppings (WCMC 1994). New Zealand Flax, once used for traditional thatched houses on Tristan, had proved to be a problem. It is crucial to keep all of the islands free from exotic mammals, as the important avifauna would be very susceptible to predation from rats or cats. |
| Tourism is an increasing threat to the environment in all corners of the globe, and Tristan Island’s economy is already partially supported by the sale of postage stamps and handicrafts to non-islanders. The extreme isolation of these islands, the steep and hazardous terrain, and the unpredictability of the weather will likely deter any large-scale tourism. |
| In 1991, a study was conducted on the effects of the commercial rock-lobster (Jasus tristani) fishery around Tristan, and the most serious impact was found to be the large number of seabirds killed when dazzled by ship's lights at night (Ryan 1991). This affects thousands of individuals of eight or more species annually. Rockhopper penguins (Eudyptes chrysocome) were at one time killed for baiting lobster traps, but this has stopped (Ryan 1991). Unlicensed fishing and illegal use of drift nets occurs to some extent within the Gough reserve (WCMC 1994). Pollution from the meteorological station is carefully controlled, and legislation controls foreign pollutants from vessels passing through Gough’s territorial waters (WCMC 1994). |
| The Tristan da Cunha and Gough archipelagos are oceanic islands that are isolated to the extent that resident taxa have undergone remarkable speciation. Many floral species are restricted to these two island groups, and three endemic bird genera are present. Each are designated as Endemic Bird Areas of the world by Stattersfield et al. (1998). |
| |
| Demographics |
The islands have a population of 275 people. The main settlement is Edinburgh of the Seven Seas (known locally as "The Settlement"). The only religion is Christianity, with denominations of Anglican and Roman Catholic. There are instances of health problems attributed to endogamy, including asthma and glaucoma.
The current population is thought to have descended from 15 ancestors, eight males and seven females who arrived on the island at various times between 1816 and 1908. The male founders originated from Scotland, England, The Netherlands, the USA and Italy. There is a very high incidence of asthma among the population and research by Dr. Noe Zamel of the University of Toronto has led to discoveries about the genetic nature of the disease. Three of the original settlers of the island were sufferers. |
| |
| Transport |
| The remote location of the islands makes transport to the outside world difficult. There is no airport, so the islands can be reached only by ship. Fishing boats from South Africa regularly service the islands. The RMS Saint Helena connects the main island to St Helena and South Africa only once during its February voyage. There is no direct service to Ascension Island and the United Kingdom, without flying from Cape Town to London or a short stay on St Helena, since the March voyage of the RMS St Helena continues to Ascension and Portland. |
| |
| Society |
On Tristan da Cunha the population of 275 people share just eight surnames: Glass (Scottish), Green (Dutch), Hagan (American), Lavarello (Italian, a typical Ligurian surname), Repetto (Italian, another typical Ligurian surname), Rogers (American), Swain (English), and Patterson. The addition of the eighth surname, Patterson, occurred recently when a Tristanian married an Englishman and returned to settle on Tristan. There are 80 families on the island.
|
| Health care is free, but, with just one resident doctor from South Africa and five nurses, the delivery and surgery are limited and serious injury can necessitate sending signals to passing fishing vessels, so that the injured person can be transferred to Cape Town. As of late 2007 IBM and Beacon Equity Partners, co-operating with Medweb, the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center and the government of Tristan da Cunha on "Project Tristan", has availed the island doctor with access to long distance tele-medical help, making it possible to send EKG and x-ray pictures to doctors in other countries for instant consultation. |
| Television did not arrive on the island until 2001, and the sole channel available is the British Forces Broadcasting Service from the Falkland Islands. Education is rudimentary; children leave school at fifteen, and although it is possible to take GCSEs a year later, results are poor. |
Tristan da Cunha's isolation has led to an unusual, patois-like dialect of English. Bill Bryson documents some examples of the island's dialect in his book, The Mother Tongue.
"Recipes from Tristan da Cunha: Simple Food for all to Enjoy", a book by Dawn Repetto published in 2010, details the unique cuisine and rich cultural heritage of Tristan da Cunha
|
|
|